fashion
Fashion

The highlights of Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024

uk_hub June 22, 2023

From green alien slime and sofa-inspired sweaters, to student scholarships and circular linen, the mood in Milan was as playful as it was mindful.

Zegna

For the Zegna exhibition, bales of unwashed linen were arranged along Piazza San Fedele in the heart of Milan. The Oasi Lino (their special linen) will be manufactured utilizing the flax cultivated at the company’s nature reserve; 70% of this collection is made with it. Oasi Lino intends to verify as 100% traceable by 2024. Alessandro Sartori, the artistic director, is a modular wardrobe expert. We are always reevaluating what an effective wardrobe should look like today. The suit with the coordinating jacket and pants no longer applicable,’ he declared. The runway collection offered countless options for summer wardrobe and smooth interchangeability.

ZegnaBales of raw linen lined Piazza San Fedele in the centre of Milan for the Zegna show. The flax, grown at the company’s nature reserve, will be used to make the Oasi Lino (their special linen) that pledges to certify as 100% traceable by 2024 – 70% of this collection is made using it. Artistic director Alessandro Sartori is a master of the modular wardrobe. ‘We keep rethinking what an efficient wardrobe should be like today. The suit and matching jacket and trousers no longer applies,’ he said. The runway collection was seamlessly interchangeable, with endless summer dressing solutions

Prada

At Prada, anticipate the unexpected. As green slime poured from the ceiling and formed curtains that spilled on the runway for SS24, the crowd was taken aback. A graphic from HR Giger’s Alien costume design that was combined with flowers and fringe was displayed alongside the Alien allusion. The show notes mentioned the independence of the body; cotton poplin-made, fitted coats were tucked into shorts. Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada, who are co-creative directors, began with a plain white blouse. Nothing underneath was worn with suits with nipped waists.

PradaExpect the unexpected at Prada. For SS24, the audience was taken by surprise as green slime oozed from the ceiling, forming curtains that pooled on the runway. The Alien reference was accompanied by a graphic from HR Giger’s design for the Ridley Scott movie that appeared on shirts mixed with orchids and fringing. The show notes described a freedom of the body – tailored jackets were made in cotton poplin and tucked into shorts. The simple white shirt was the starting point for co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. Suits with nipped waists were worn with nothing underneath

Magliano

Luca Magliano’s star is gradually increasing after sharing this year’s LVMH Prize’s Karl Lagerfeld award. He and Bettter, owned by Julie Pelipas, split the victory. His SS24 collection displayed a louche effortlessness and was inspired by his Bologna background (where the label is situated) and Italian subcultures. An array of models were seen sporting denim, slouchy pants, vintage-inspired knits, bomber jackets, and other timeless pieces. A lesson in subtle styling elements including rolled sleeves, knotted belts, and scarves, as well as layering.

MaglianoJoint winner of the Karl Lagerfeld award at this year’s LVMH prize, Luca Magliano’s star is slowly rising. He shared the win with Julie Pelipas’s Bettter. Inspired by his Bologna roots, where the label is based, and Italian subcultures, his SS24 collection exhibited a louche effortlessness. Bomber jackets, vintage-look knitwear, slouchy trousers and denim. Worn by a diverse cast of models making the ageless appeal clear. A masterclass in layering and subtle styling details – rolled sleeves, knotted belts and scarves

Valentino

It’s obvious that Pierpaolo Piccioli is among the throngs of A Little Life devotees. He sent out a unique version of the book along with the invitation to the performance, and Hanya Yanagihara’s novel quotations were also utilized on trousers, jackets, and handbags. Other references to the exhibition included a love of traditional menswear norms and an urge to reimagine them. The collection was understated yet had romanticism in the flower designs and color scheme. The performance was held in the courtyard of La Statale University, where as part of its charitable endeavors, Valentino will support student scholarships.

ValentinoPierpaolo Piccioli is clearly one of the legions of A Little Life fans. Not only did he send out a special edition of the book as the show invitation, but quotes from Hanya Yanagihara’s novel were used on jeans, blazers and bags. Other show references included an appreciation for classic menswear codes and a desire to reinterpret them. The collection was paired back but with touches of romanticism in flower motifs and the colour palette. The show was staged in the courtyard at La Statale University where Valentino will sponsor student scholarships as part of its giving back programme

MSGM

Massimo Giorgetti, creative director, drew inspiration for his SS24 collection from a recent trip to Tanzania. His sand and lilac color scheme was inspired by the sunset photos on his iPhone, which took up a lot of memory space and featured on bowling shirts and tank tops. Colorful jersey items were embellished with safari-inspired details (torchlights, robust Jeeps, and other safari necessities). Although the boxy, wide-leg fluid suits added a more mature touch, the atmosphere at MSGM is always youthful at heart.
MSGMCreative director Massimo Giorgetti’s recent trip to Tanzania inspired his SS24 collection. His memory-heavy iPhone full of photographs of sunsets appeared on bowling shirts and tank tops and informed his sand and lilac colour palette. Safari elements that fuelled his inspiration (torchlights, sturdy Jeeps and other safari essentials) adorned colourful jersey pieces. Boxy, wide-leg fluid suits brought a more grown-up element, but the mood at MSGM is always young at heart

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani chose to host visitors at his property on via Borgonuovo in center Milan rather than the expansive HQ located over town for the presentation of his flagship SS24 show, continuing Milan’s tradition of stealth-wealth, quiet-luxury. The huge pencil at the end of the white only runway represented the collection’s clean slate beginning. Despite frequently being repeated, classic styles have evolved with each iteration. Raffia print and tailor worn with nothing underneath, a popular trend on the show floor in the Italian city this week, were updates for next summer.

Giorgio ArmaniContinuing Milan’s stealth-wealth, quiet-luxury trend, Giorgio Armani invited guests to his residence on via Borgonuovo in central Milan rather than the sprawling HQ situated across town for the unveiling of his mainline SS24 show. The giant pencil at the end of the all-white runway symbolised the blank page starting point of the collection. Classic styles are often revisited but they were revised with each new iteration. Updates for next summer included a raffia print and tailoring worn with nothing underneath – a prevalent trend on the runway in the Italian capital this week

Neil Barrett

Neil Barrett made a comeback to the runway with his minimalist aesthetic for SS24. During this Milan Fashion Week, uniform references were prominent. Here, they took the form of a jacket or bomber/shorts/boots combo that nodded to military fashion. As the primary simple colors, nut brown and grey took the place of black, while zesty lemon and lime served as the accent hues.
Neil BarrettSS24 saw Neil Barrett return both to the runway and his 90s minimalist roots. Uniform references cropped up a lot during this Milan fashion week, here they were manifested in a blazer or bomber/shorts/boots combo that gave a nod to military style. Nut brown and grey replaced black as the core minimal colour, zingy lemon and lime provided the accent colour