“Whenever you put something on, you’re making some sort of a statement, aren’t you?” So says the England coach and fashion icon Gareth Southgate, and I agree. Standing on a touchline in an M&S merino wool polo knit – short sleeves, half zip – I feel every inch the smart-casual centrist dad. Even the colour is neutral.
During the 2018 World Cup, Southgate’s personal dress code heralded a new style of leadership for the England team: solid, understated, a little paternal. As the team progressed to the semi-finals, his Marks & Spencer waistcoats came to be regarded as a lucky talisman, and M&S was quick to capitalise – sales of its waistcoats doubled.
But Southgate’s style – sartorial and managerial – has evolved in the run-up to this summer’s Euro 2024 in Germany. “This year it will be more short-sleeved knits than a suit and tie, because we’re trying to create a relaxed environment,” he told GQ magazine. “When you’re working with young lads, you don’t want to be too stiff – in what you’re doing or wearing.”
Once again Southgate’s wardrobe choices appear to be contagious: days after this statement, the menswear retailer Jacamo reported that sales of its stone-coloured knitted polo had jumped by 42%, while sales of its cotton cardigans were up 130%.
I find myself, as ever, profoundly out of step with the times. I got rid of my last cardigan about two years ago – I loved it, but the moths loved it more. And I have never owned a short-sleeved knit. If I’m honest I wasn’t really aware there was such a thing. But I secured a few in the hope of being able to co-opt a little bit of Southgate’s laid-back authority.
Hanging by the goal in a local park in my short-sleeved knitted polo top, I think I’m beginning to get the idea: I feel relaxed, confident, informal and cold. It’s 17C and cloudy, with a stiff wind blowing from the west and rain predicted. There are goosebumps on my naked arms.