Heightened hemlines and see-through shirts: menswear bares all at fashion week

The menswear shows in Milan and Paris have just wrapped and, in short, it was a vibe. The street style set were divided into two distinct style camps. On one side, there were the tailoring connoisseurs who opted for sharp suiting, polished footwear and natty accessories such as slick wide-framed sunglasses. On the other side was a more laissez-faire approach: think slouchy jeans, crinkled shirting and baseball caps galore.

 

But of course, it was the catwalks where the ultimate showdown played out. From teeny-tiny shorts to slogan T-shirts, here are the spring/summer ‘25 trends to note.

At Ami and Gucci shorts hovered around the three-inch mark. On the Gucci front row the Irish actor Paul Mescal even endorsed the short-shorts trend in a striped cotton boxer-esque pair. Meanwhile, at Neil Barrett and Dior shorts fell to just above models’ knees. Choose your fighter.

 

Giorgio Armani’s show was set against the video backdrop of wafting palm fronds, setting the tone for a collection that featured softly focused photographic prints of palm trees and ferns on silky pyjama-esque sets and loosely cut T-shirts. At Dior, Kim Jones took inspiration from the work of the South African ceramicist Hylton Nel: a neat collarless jacket featuring a blue-and-white floral motif that required more than 600 hours of hand-beading was akin to an heirloom vase placed pride of place on a mantelpiece. Meanwhile, the British designer Grace Wales Bonner chose to celebrate the work of the Trinidadian textile artist Althea McNish, who was known for her vibrant floral patterns.