That said, flakes are also a cry for attention. The same goes for cracks, redness, inflammation – whatever your particular chapped lips look like. Chapping is the body’s way of saying, “I’m doing all I can here. A little help in the hydration department, please?” Help can come in many forms (I’ll get to those later), but because we live in a society that worships the industrial production of little plastic thingies, most people use a tube (or 12) of lip balm.
You describe your use as an “addiction”. I want to be clear that petrolatum, the main ingredient in ChapStick and other products like it, is not chemically addictive. It is, however, so ineffective at addressing the root cause of the problem it purports to solve that it can eventually worsen chapped lips by conditioning users to crave the short-term results it provides at the expense of exploring other, more practical solutions.
Here’s what’s happening to you, Lip Balm Addict: “Occlusive lip products like ChapStick can act as a protective barrier, helping to mitigate moisture loss on the lips, particularly in dry conditions,” said aesthetician Mary Schook. This faux-barrier takes over for your chapped barrier. It locks in existing hydration and your lips receive the signal that it’s OK to release old, flaking cells. They appear moist and plump once more. Relief! Albeit temporary.
The issue is that ChapStick “isn’t adding real hydration to your lips”, according to Dr Michelle Henry, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York. Petrolatum “locks in moisture, but it doesn’t give you moisture”, she explained. “It blocks your lips from getting moisture from the environment.” Your lips are still dry under all that balm, which becomes apparent as soon as the product wears off. “Because you’re never really getting hydrated, you end up using more and more of it,” Dr Henry said.
That lip balm requires constant reapplication doesn’t strike consumers as a product flaw, but as an opportunity to fulfill their personal purpose: buying stuff. If you’re truly addicted to anything in this scenario, dear Lip Balm Addict, it’s probably that. And you’re not alone! Last year, lip treatment sales increased 58% year-on-year. In a recent report on the “collect-them-all” mentality of lip gloss lovers, Business of Fashion quoted a source as saying, “My friends carry it the same way they would carry a Juul. It’s an object to carry with you everywhere, and there’s usually a few of them in people’s bags.”