From first winter ascents to high-altitude rescues, an extraordinary odyssey of courage, ethics and vision
Born on October 27, 1967, in Bergamo, Italy, Simone Moro is much more than an elite mountaineer—he is a visionary whose extraordinary blend of adventure, humanity and spirit has reshaped the world of high-altitude exploration and rescue. Over more than three decades, Moro has forged a legend built not just on summits but on firsts, ethics, and an unyielding commitment to saving lives.
🏔️ Winter Pioneer and Record‑Setter
Moro holds the distinction of achieving the world’s first winter ascents of four 8,000-meter peaks, a feat unmatched in mountaineering history:
| Peak | Year | Partner(s) |
|---|---|---|
| Shishapangma | 2005 | Piotr Morawski |
| Makalu | 2009 | Denis Urubko |
| Gasherbrum II | 2011 | Denis Urubko, Cory Richards fr.wikipedia.org+8en.wikipedia.org+8amazon.com+8 |
| Nanga Parbat | 2016 | Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara |
Climbing without bottled oxygen and embracing brutal conditions, Moro defines real winter ascents as those carried out entirely after the winter solstice (Dec 21), a purist view he has preached since launching more than 20 winter expeditions.
🚁 Rescue Pilot in the Sky
Not content to push boundaries on foot alone, Moro ventured into the skies. In 2009, he earned his helicopter pilot license and soon established a pioneering rescue helicopter service near Lukla, Nepal, aimed at helping anyone in distress, not just wealthy mountaineers climbing.com.
His rescue feats are legendary:
- In 2013, he performed the world’s highest long-line helicopter rescue at 7,800 m, near Lhotse.
- In 2015, he set a helicopter world altitude record of 6,705 m.
- In May 2023, Moro flew to Camp III on Everest (7,350 m) to rescue an Indian climber, defying weather and altitude limits.
In 2013 alone, he flew 250 hours over just 65 days, some rescues hovering near the helicopter’s technical limits, to evacuate climbers, Sherpas, trekkers, and villagers. Although facing criticism for enabling risky climbs, Moro has made clear: helicopter rescue is a humanitarian tool, not a safety net.
🎖️ Ethos and Recognition
Moro embodies an ethical mountaineering philosophy where “a human life is more important than any summit.” In 2001, he abandoned an Everest–Lhotse climb to rescue English alpinist Tom Moores. For this act of courage, he received the Pierre de Coubertin Fair Play Trophy, Italy’s Civilian Gold Medal, and the American Alpine Club’s David A. Sowles Memorial Award.
Moores later reflected:
“I believe it’s a perfect example of the true climbing spirit.” climbing.com
📚 Author, Advocate and Educator
Beyond his high-stakes endeavors, Moro has penned several books—such as The Call of the Ice, Cometa sull’Annapurna, and 8000 metri di vita, sharing the poetic and psychological depth of winter climbing.
He also co-founded the Shimshal Mountaineering School in Pakistan, fostered education in Nepal, and set up healthcare and shepherd refuges, demonstrating a genuine commitment to local communities simonemoro.com.
What’s Next?
Now 57, Moro has declared he won’t chase the elusive winter ascent of K2, telling National Geographic, “I’m too old. … And my wife had a dream about me dying on K2, so I won’t go.”
He’s also planning another winter attempt on Manaslu, possibly embracing more “light-style” alpine techniques.
Instead of pursuing more 8,000ers, Moro is turning toward technical climbs on unclimbed 7,000-meter peaks, refocusing on pure exploration beyond headline-grabbing objectives nationalgeographic.com.
Legacy of a Legend
Simone Moro’s journey isn’t just measured in vertical metres or records, it’s defined by integrity, solidarity, and pioneering spirit. Whether summiting a frozen Himalaya peak, rescuing someone in mortal danger, writing a powerful narrative, or uplifting remote communities, Moro balances ambition with empathy. He reminds us that the highest peaks demand not just strength, but also heart.
As he continues to chart new paths and impart wisdom to future climbers, his legacy stands as a testament to the power of adventure when tempered by conscience.
